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Travels in a Dervish Cloak
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Spellbound by his grandmother's Anglo-Indian heritage and the exuberant annual visits of her friend the Begum, Isambard Wilkinson became enthralled by Pakistan as a teenager, eventually working there as a foreign correspondent during the War on Terror. Seeking the land behind the headlines, he sets out to discover the essence of a country convulsed by Islamist violence. What of the old, mystical Pakistan has survived and what has been destroyed? We meet charismatic tribal chieftains making their last stand, hereditary saints blessing prostitutes, gangster bosses in violent slums and ecstatic Muslim pilgrims. Navigating a minefield of coups, conspiracies, cock-ups and bombs, Bard is reluctant to judge; his is a funny, hashish- and whisky-scented travel book from the frontline, full of open-hearted delight and a poignant lust for life. Photographs by Chev Wilkinson.
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Product details
Hardcover: 256 pages
Publisher: Eland Books (December 31, 2017)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 178060078X
ISBN-13: 978-1780600789
Product Dimensions:
5.7 x 1 x 8.8 inches
Shipping Weight: 14.9 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
5.0 out of 5 stars
2 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#2,258,540 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
A wonderful book for anyone who loves or has a passing interest in Pakistan. Rather than subjecting the reader to a potted history of Pakistan or an analysis of its state of affairs, Wilkinson delves behind the headlines to bring to life characters that jump off the page. From feuding household employees, to his grandmother's life-long friend in Lahore, from the wilds of Baluchistan to sufi shrines galore, the author lets the beauty of the landscape and the Pakistanis he met tell the story, all with humour and insight. By neglecting to make himself the sole focus, the author offers something new and original to the body of published work about one of the most fascinating countries in the world.
I don’t often read travel books – but I’m glad I read this one. And soon, it was hard to avoid making comparisons with Eric Newby, Fitzroy Maclean and John Masters. But why bother? Bard Wilkinson, so different to them, I’d hazard a guess, and wise beyond his years, has his own distinctive style; perceptive, calm, compelling, great humanity and an engaging absence of ego.One is immediately drawn into why this part of the world got into his blood during his youth – and remains there. Later, he returns as foreign correspondent for The Daily Telegraph. His brushwork describing sensory aspects such as sights, sounds and smells, is richly hued. Moreover, passages about places, Chitral in particular, a visually stunning part of northern Pakistan, and some of the characters he encounters, are both fascinating and enchanting. (The redoubtable Wilfred Thesiger wrote that an aspect of Chitral was ‘probably the finest view I had ever seen in my life’.) The author describes much that, to my surprise, still exists as I had seen it as a mere passer-by in 1970 – though tragically the relentless encroachment of toxic political and religious influences now threaten to extinguish the magic of its diversity and tolerance.As foreign correspondent, he inevitably is witness to scenes that are savage, vivid and shocking. Nevertheless, he distances his cameos from hyperbole and melodrama. I think this is part of the author’s innate modesty and courage; there is no doubt that some of his experiences involved great risk. If you went looking for serious trouble in his bailiwick at the time, it wouldn’t take you long to find it. Well, it was often his job. And sometimes this also involved interviewing some quite nasty people.Again, he characteristically skates over the dangers of a stint in Afghanistan which terminates in a military hospital in Camp Bastion, Helmand province, due to a daunting illness which had plagued him for years. (Whilst there, he witnessed an ungrateful Taliban patient running amok ‘trying to kill the first person at hand’.)I was impressed by the author’s encyclopaedic knowledge of the region’s history, culture, traditions, and personalities – which, quite apart from anything else, makes this a must-read for those requiring invaluable insights in the region and some of its personalities.I read this nicely crafted and poignant book with a mix of nostalgia, envy and respect, feeling rather sad to reach the final full-stop. It is surely delightful and enthralling reading for anyone interested in travel in a way rarely done today.
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